McClelland’s Islay Single Malt

Most reviewer’s naturally migrate to higher quality, more complex – and more expensive – whiskies as time goes by. But it is always worthwhile to take a step back and explore entry-level malts and blends, so see if there are any good value buys out there.

McClelland’s is an unusual “brand”. It produces what is known in the biz as “mystery malts” (or more colloquially, “bastard malts”), where the source distillery for each single malt expression is not identified. McClelland’s was originally a Glasgow-based whisky blending and export firm, until it was purchased in 1970 by what was to eventually become known today as Morrison Bowmore Distillers.

Morrison Bowmore owns three malt distilleries – the Lowland Auchentoshan, the Highland Glen Garioch, and Isle of Islay’s Bowmore. They sell a wide range of official bottlings of single malts from these distilleries. But Morrison Bowmore has long used the McClelland’s brand for unspecified single malt bottlings of “Lowland”, “Highland”, and “Islay” regional whiskies.  Care to make any guesses as to where they are likely sourcing the barrels for those three regions? 😉  It’s not much of a stretch to imagine.  Since 1999, they have also been producing a “Speyside” expression (source of barrels unknown).

There are plenty of independent bottlings of these three distilleries as well – which raises the question of what sorts of barrels are finding their way into the budget McClelland’s offerings. As a point of reference, all the McClelland’s regional single malt whiskies sell for $45 CAD at the LCBO – whereas the entry-level NAS expressions for these three distilleries all start at $60 CAD.

I had skipped over these McClelland’s in my early scotch drinking exposure, and didn’t even bother incorporating them into my Meta-Critic database initially.  But I had the chance to sample the McClelland’s Islay Single Malt recently at a bar. Here is what I found in the glass:

Nose: Wow, that’s more potent than I expected – heavy medicinal peat, with lots of salty seaweed. Very strong coastal Islay presence, with greater complexity than your typical entry-level Bowmore (with its typically simple smoke). Has a decaying vegetative character, with a touch of iodine. Unfortunately, with that also comes some unusual funky notes, like old sweats socks. Beyond that (and it takes a while to get past that), some lemony spirit asserts itself, along with some sweet light caramel and vanilla. A bit of ethanol burn. While young, this is actually a surprisingly promising start.

Palate: Ok, where did it go?  After that heavy olfactory assault, it just seems to disappear in the mouth. Lightly sweet, with standard caramel and vanilla. Some kind of vague fruitiness, but artificial. Nutty (peanuts). Extremely watery mouthfeel, hard to believe this is even 40% ABV. All the smell of Islay and none of the flavour – I don’t think I’ve ever experienced a single malt evaporating so quickly in the mouth.

Finish: Fairly short (although that’s not necessarily a bad thing here). Touch of vegetal character comes back, with that funk in particular. Smoke lingers, but then so does the funk. Sweet vanilla lasts to the end.

I actually spent a fair amount of time nosing this one, as I was taken aback by its complexity. Perhaps I had unfairly misjudged these entry-level mystery malts, I thought.  But the first sip made it clear why this falls into the category it does – there is really not much here.

Here is how the McClelland’s compare in my Meta-Critic database, relative to their underlying base distilleries owned by Morrison Bowmore.

McClelland’s Speyside Single Malt: 6.71 ± 0.48 on 6 reviews ($$)
McClelland’s Highland Single Malt: 7.08 ± 0.47 on 7 reviews ($$)
McClelland’s Lowland Single Malt: 7.04 ± 0.51 on 4 reviews ($$)
McClelland’s Islay Single Malt: 7.94 ± 0.64 on 8 reviews ($$)

Auchentoshan American Oak: 7.55 ± 0.91 on 7 reviews ($$)
Auchentoshan 12yo: 8.29 ± 0.26 on 21 reviews ($$$)
Bowmore Small Batch: 8.28 ± 0.56 on 10 reviews ($$$)
Bowmore 12yo: 8.39 ± 0.29 on 18 reviews ($$$)
Glen Garioch Founder’s Reserve: 8.35 ± 0.38 on 16 reviews ($$$)
Glen Garioch Virgin Oak: 8.12 ± 0.50 on 6 reviews ($$$$)
Glen Garioch 12yo: 8.65 ± 0.32 on 14 reviews ($$$$)

McClellands.IslayAs you can see above, this Islay is actually the highest ranked member of the McClelland’s family – although all are ranked well below the official bottlings from the (presumed) source distilleries. I would personally score the McClelland’s Islay lower than the Meta-Critic average.

The most positive reviews for this Islay expression come for the guys at Quebec Whisky. My own assessment is more in line with Jan of Best Shot Whisky and Josh the Whiskey Jug. Josh’s review in particular closely matches my own tasting notes. I also share his assessment that Morrison Bowmore is likely using McClelland’s as a dumping ground for poor quality barrels they can’t otherwise offload.

In my view, I think you are best sticking with the entry level age-statement expressions from the underlying distilleries here. And if you are ok with a bit less smoke, for $5 CAD less than the McClelland’s Islay you can pick up the quite decent Te Bheag blended scotch whisky at the LCBO.

15 comments

  • Martin N Anderson

    I’d rather drink Laphroig. But I’m retired. McClelland’s gives me the chance to drink my beloved Islay regularly. I actually like it better than some high-end Islays (not Laphroig or 12-year Bowmore though). It’s a great compromise.

  • Christopher Molloy

    Yes it is, as is Finlaggan Old Reserve.

  • At $23.00 USD per bottle, it is hard to beat, I think it has better taste than blends in its price range

  • I truly liked it. I don’t like the Highland nor the lowland Mcclellans this is definitely a decent scotch for the price. The hint of Peat is really what I like over the other scotches of the McClellans. What I would prefer is balvenie which is a dual cask single malt.

  • Worst scotch I EVER drank. And believe me I am a scotch drinker. Saw it decided to take a turn off my usual chivas glenmorange offerings. What a mistake. Tastes like medicine ugghhh!!!

    • Common dude! You have had few scotch whiskies ( chivas and glenmorangie offerings) but by no means you know scotch whisky. I respect the different preference and taste but the examples you give shows you have no clue.

  • thought it tasted like it was blended with grain alcohol

  • When I can’t afford my favorite Laphroaig, this Islay hits the spot and is well worth the $23 USD! Great Smokey taste with that Islay peat linger.

  • For the price, I was pleasantly surprised. It really isn’t too bad. Recommend if, lime me, you are on a budget and love peat.

  • So, my new favorite cocktail is a variation on the Blood and Sand made with Islay whisky. This isn’t Lagavulin, but if you are mixing it anyway it is EXCELLENT for the price.

  • McClelland’s is great for someone who is new to the Scotch world, and is wanting to explore the regions that Scotland has to offer. I spent a happy Michigan Winter a few years ago exploring Scotland for about $25/bottle, and learned a lot about the different regions. The good thing about McClelland’s is that the notes that make each region unique are almost exaggerated here, helping the budding Scotch enthusiast identify what they should look for (though expressed more subtlely) in higher-end Scotches. That being said, McClelland’s Islay isn’t too over-the-top that a seasoned Scotch drinker on a budget won’t find it pleasing.

  • I have Glenfiddich 12, 15, 18 single malts on the shelf and have gravitated there after trying half a dozen other (more or less) entry level offerings. So, recently, Bowmore and McCelland’s Islay single malts went on sale. Couldn’t pass them up because I’d never tried them before. What a shocker at my first try with an Islay whiskey. So, two shots on the rocks suits me well. I don’t mind the medicine. However, when I need smooth, it’s back to my Glenfiddich or Macallans.

  • I really disapprove of the snobbish rejections of the whiskey. I drink Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Macallan and The Singleton and as Islays go it’s a budget peaty treat. It lacks some refinement but also comes in at a fourth the price. On a chilly night, this does nicely and is priced to share.

  • I have Lagavulin 16, Bruichladdich The classic laddie, ardbeg 10, Laphroig 10, Bowmore 10, other than kilchoman and bunnahabain, all sitting on the shelf and I enjoy them regularly. I like to devour those but like to substitute my dram for a cheaper option most of the time. McClellands Islay isn’t the best standing next to Any of these, but is in no way a bad dream. I enjoy it more than jonnie black, or the famous grous smoky black for a cheap party option.

  • Nice whisky a have on my shelf lagavulin bowmore laproach ardbeg ten and finlaggan.
    A have tried once more the McClelland so i now were i talking about.
    The McClelland and the finlaggan are young spirits from Bowmore and Lagavulin.
    When you have a low budget takes those two.

    enjoy the peatlover.

Leave a Reply to Dr Z Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.